Theodore Roosevelt National Park (TRNP) in North Dakota was one that escaped us on our last western road trip. Located in southwest portion of North Dakota we couldn’t get to it before. However, with it only being about a hour from Bismarck, and since we love parks and Theodore Roosevelt (TR) it was a no brainer to head there! (spoiler alert: if you love nature, dry heat, and Theodore Roosevelt consider this park an absolute must-see).
The first portion of the park that we came upon was the Painted Canyon. As soon as we turned into the pull off there was a bison bull just strolling along the grounds. There was a gift shop and we bought pretty much everything with Teddy’s likeness on it. The canyon was gorgeous.
TRNP is divided into 3 units: The South Unit, the North Unit (about an hour drive from the south unit), and the Elkhorn Ranch (a more remote and under developed portion that was once home to TR’s cattle ranch). We camped both nights at the South Unit, but visited the North unit on the second day. It was a popular park but not crowded by any means, which allowed you to enjoy it at your own pace.
Before you enter the south unit there is a little town called Medora. It has a bunch of gift shops, restaurants, and western themed locations like “The Cowboy Café” (which we stopped at for lunch). It reminded us of something like Deadwood, SD but just a little smaller.
Upon entry into the South Unit, the visitor center is immediately on your left. We stopped there, watched the movie, and toured the small exhibit they had. It focused on wildlife in the badlands, as well as TR. We both squealed with excitement when we saw the shirt TR was wearing when he was shot delivering a campaign speech. (The dude got shot, acknowledged the gun wound, but kept on speaking before seeking any medical attention).
Right behind the south unit visitor center is the Maltese Cross Cabin (warning: history lesson about to ensue). This was the first cabin TR had built here, and today you can tour it on your own or wait for a tour like we did. TR first came to the Dakota badlands to “bag a big one” referring to a buffalo. He arrived in his Brooks Brothers buck skin shirt and his pistol and knife from Tiffany’s. When he did arrive he completely feel in love with the Dakota badlands and they say this where his desire for preservation of the national parks began. Theodore bought the Elkhorn Ranch, and of coarse paid ranchers to maintain it while he lived in New York. Turned out he lost most of his cattle during one really bad winter (most ranchers in those parts apparently did) and eventually sold the ranch. Not before returning to North Dakota after both his mother and his wife died on the same day. He came out to the Dakota badlands to heal his soul and is quoted in saying that had it not been for his time in the Dakota Badlands, he never would have been President.
After our tour we did the 20-some mile round trip scenic drive of the south unit before stopping at our campsite. On the way there is plenty of wildlife (feral horses, prairie dogs, and buffalo). We took a sort little hike to a lookout point and although it was windy, it was a beautiful view.
We settled in for our first few nights of camping on the trip at the campground in the park. Both nights we were there a park ranger hosted evening programs. We enjoyed “Life at the bottom of the food chain” (all about prairie dogs) and “Megafauna Management” (how they control the population of their larger animals in the park.
On our second day we took the drive to the North Unit. While the south unit is in Mountain Time zone, the North Unit is in Central Time. A few of the things we saw here were cannonball concretions, longhorn cattle, and more prairie dogs. The highlight by far was following the huge buffalo down the center of the road for about 10 minutes. We just have to let them do their thing and not rush them along!
We stopped in Medora again before going back to the campsite for the night. We visited the Cowboy Hall of Fame museum and some more gift shops. Had to hold ourselves back from buying everything and anything with TR’s face on it.
On our way out of our campground, on our final day of departure, we were greeted with a feral horse just hanging out at the campsite.
We headed out of North Dakota and across Montana with our next stop being Yellowstone National Park. We got into a little car accident in Billing, MT but everyone is 100% ok both us and the other guy. Our truck was thankfully still drivable, just a little blemished. Wyoming would surely make things better so we decided to keep on truckin’ to Yellowstone!
Dietz Summer Road Trip 